Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Non-Petro Discussions Non-petro Discussion and Showcase Model A Crank Handle dimentions?

Does anyone know the inner dimensions of a model A crank handle? I got a great old crank easel that is missing it's crank arm and thought to look at automotive crank arms as a possible replacement (could not find listings under crank easels for just the crank arm). The easel has a 1.25 inch long square that's about 3/8" to a side. I'm using a 7/8 star socket wrench (only one of the two 7/8 that I have fits it--so it's a little bit of an odd size) which is not ideal because it's not deep enough. And yeah I know 3/8 is less than 7/8 but it's a square and the socket is a star if that explains anything. I tried to go to mm that was between 7/8 and 1/2 but that didn't work. I thought if the crank hole was close to 3/8 I could file it to fit...probably wishful thinking! lol

Thanks for any info...

The upper one is the tilt and the lower raises and lowers the painting. The lower one is the one I use the most as you can tell from the shiny bit. Problem is that because the socket does not go very far on it, I have to hold it at the socket to keep from dropping it. I tried a 7/8 long star socket but that did not work. So I had been seeing Model A crank handles online but they did not give dimensions--so if anyone knows what they are (probably too big) I would appreciate it.

Hi Nicole:
The model A Ford crank is round on the end that inserts into the crankshaft bolt with two ears to catch in it. The other end is a hex socket used to remove the lug nuts from the wheels. If the shaft on your easel is 3/8 square, as I understand your measurements, then a 3/8 square drive socket could be used on it. A deep socket used on a 3/8 impact wrench could be welded to some sort of hand crank to do the trick. Just weld the end that fits the bolt or nut to the crank and slip the square end over the protrusion on your easel. The deep socket would give plenty of depth for the 1.25 inches of square shaft. Hope this makes sense to you and helps, also....Dale

Nicole-not completely sure why your using 1/2 and 7/8 sockets on a 3/8 square shaft. I must be misunderstanding something... Please forgive me as I dont want to sound condescending .Anyways, When you say "star socket" do you mean 12 point, 6 point, or 8 point? An 8 point socket is made to fit on a square nut (four sides). Like Dale says cant you just put a 3/8"drive,3/8" (or1/2") ,8point socket on ,say, a 3/8" drive speeder?.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-3-8-or-1-2-SAE-Star-8pt-Socket-Any-Size-STD-8-pt-Point/381798162251?hash=item58e4f19f4b:m:m7CeHUJ01Mfxp32wIAS1hgA:sc:USPSFirstClass!44147!US!-1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Husky-CB85-3-8-Drive-Speed-Wrench-16-Long-Speeder-Socket-Wrench-USA/282564609499?hash=item41ca29c5db:g:byUAAOSwuq9ZYmc1

Dale, Re the crank handle - it was on e-bay and had the square hole on the end but it is no longer there--pulled or sold. I was surprised because all the other crank handles were as you describe. Part of me was hoping it was made for the easel and misidentified, but the listing did not have the square hole dimensions.

I have a bunch of tools from when I was in my 20's (way back when), but alas a welding kit is not one of those...

Jim, thanks for the socket tutorial. I bought that set back in 1980. I think I may have used it for my car 74, pre anti pollution (lots of room for a beginner to work with) Corolla as I couldn't afford to go to a mechanic while I was in school. I'll have to count the star points.

The square turn heads look to be hand made and vary very slightly in width along the shaft which has made it a guessing game, and my ignorance in socketry hasn't helped. lol I saw a universal socket, but thought it might be too wide for the space in between, but may measure and re look at that again.

Thanks to both of you for your suggestions. With your information, I will try again getting samples from the hardware store (and car parts store), and if that doesn't work, I know a blacksmith (and maybe he knows a welder) who might help.

I love this easel and am finally in a studio where I can use it. It needs a 12 foot minimum ceiling to be fully utilized at eye level by 5' 6" me. I stand when I work, and it's the first time I've been able to stand and work on the bottom of some of my larger paintings without having to Jerry rig an extension on my other easels that always had the potential of slipping and damaging the canvas.

Wow, I just read my posts and saw I did the same thing today at the hardware store that I wrote on line*. No wonder I've been having trouble!

Time has passed and between some painting deadlines on my smaller easle and a visit to the folks, I hadn't had time (or kept forgetting) to stop at the hardware store again. The short 7/16 12 pt was working, but I had to use two hands. A deep 7/16 12 pt did not fit (go figure).

Today I found it! It was a 3/8 drive, 12mm 12 pt deep socket. Now I can crank one handed--much quicker!

Thanks for all the help and education. My main problem was that I didn't know there were different points (very teeny tiny symbol on the socket labels). Your problem in helping was figuring out what the heck I measured!!!

*I looked at my previous posts and my brain seemed to spoonerate 3/8 inch drive with 7/16 diameter size. I was thinking 7/16 whilst writing or saying 7/8. Hardware guy (they keep the sockets locked up) probably thought I was nuts! Whereas you all know I'm nuts...

Glad you found something that worked,I didn't chime in when you first posted. I felt I could have made a handle that worked,if I wasn't miles away. I never could grasp what size the square shaft was.

Wow, I appreciate the kind thoughts, from Loyd and from all of you... : )

This is why I needed a handle. My chin would be about where the bottom of the painting is. The next image shows the socket wrench with painters tape over the rough grip area so I can twirl it around my hand without it feeling like sandpaper on the back of my hand.