I have been looking for this sign for a long time and a few months back I had the chance to purchase one. I have tried to clean it up with various methods but nothing has worked. The condition is not so great. I was thinking of clear coating it to bring the shine back. See the pictures and let me know if I should leave it as is or clear it. Thanks in advance!!!

Touch it up & clearcoat, then enjoy & hope to upgrade if you find a better one.

I've never clear coated a sign, so I can't/won't speak to that.

The rust spots can be cleaned up quite easily, by trying my alum foil method. I explained my methods in my thread about the Veedol 5 gallon can I cleaned up.

Lucky Lone Star (Aaron) has one but HE WONT SELL IT LOL!!! I think it's because he knows I love the old Firestone signs

It looks like porcelain to me, is it? If so, you'll have to mechanically scuff it pretty good to give it any "tooth " for the clear to stick to it. Why not try to get rid of the rust with an oxalic acid bath and then touch it up with enamel? I know I'm new to this site, but I've been painting signs (the old-fashioned way) since the 70's

I agree with DB & Bob. Barkeepers Friend & a mild scrub pad will take the rust stains right off

I tried the BKF with a mild scuff pad with no luck. Left it on for about a minute and then cleaned it off- After it dried all the stains came back- Unless I am missing something?

It is a porcelain sign

Use muratic acid to remove the rust stains. Find some very fine white rubbing compound and use a buffer to bring out the gloss. Tough it up. You won't need to clear coat it.

Another Picture to show the amount of staining:

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When using muratic acid, keep Baking Soda water handy to neutralize & wear protection. Best to use outdoors.

Plus a good coat of wax would help!

Randy

BKF is a very weak solution, I'd think the rust is too heavy for that. Muriatic acid is an option, but it's very strong, and oxalic acid works, but even with that, you would need to keep it wet for a couple of days. The only think I don't know about is whether it would affect the porcelain finish. It would be good to do a little experimenting first. I order oxalic acid from a veterinary supply (Van Dyke) and use it to remove rust on antique auto parts. It works great, but use with gloves and safety glasses and use it outside.

I have never had any luck trying to bring the shine back to a "cobalt Blue" porcelain sign. I've tried everything mentioned on this post so far. If one of them ends up working, please report which one, and the step by step, on how you got it to work. Thanks, Don

DO NOT leave muratic acid on for long periods of time [like overnight] as it will eat the metal under porcelain [learned the hard way].

SMOOTH SOME HOWARD'S FEED & WAX OVER IT, THAT WILL KEEP IT GLOSSY FOR A WHILE. RE-APPLY WHEN IT GETS DUSTY AND DULL. SIMPLE.

Muratic acid should take most of those rust stains right off. The orange looks weak already so don't leave the acid on for more than a few seconds. I use an old paint brush to apply the acid and scrub lightly, and keep the garden hose in the other hand so I can rinse the acid off quickly. Wear rubber globes, and safety glasses! Don't breathe the fumes either.
Oh yeah, don't acid wash a sign on your lawn. You'll end up with dead grass around the sign. Ask me how I know.

Remember that sno bowl Toilet bowl cleaner around your house is a weak solution of acid. Most marinas use this to clean the algae etc. off the bottom of the boats. Will clean the rust with much less risk than full stength muratic.

I'm saying clear it.Scrub it real good with the BKF to remove rust, then if you have a friend at a body shop, have him spray a coat of clear on it. Our painters are always mixing to much clear and the leftovers normally will always do a sign. Besides, if you don't like the clear, it is easily removed. I have done one myself and I am very happy. As for sanding it, I see no need for it. IMHO.

I have decided to CLEAR the sign. A friend of mine is a body man by profession and he said he will do it for me. I will post results when done. I appreciate everyone's input on this project.

Thanks!

WILL YOU BE REPAIRING THE CHIPS BEFOREHAND? OR WILL YOU JUST LET IT GO AS A BARN HANGER?

We have put clear on a few of the signs in our collection, and it always wants to come off in about 10 years.

Here are some pictures of the sign after clear. They are not the best pictures and the white dots are just dust on the surface not in the clean. This sign looks 100% better. A high quality Spies Clear was used so I hope it holds up. Enjoy!

WOW! IT DEF DEFINES THE COLORS AND BRINGS IT BACK TO LIFE! GREAT JOB ON AN OTHERWISE BARN-HANGER!

I CLEAR-COATED A VERT FIRESTONE SIGN ABOUT 6 YEARS AGO AND IT'S STARTING TO SHOW WEAR. CRACKS, FADING AND PEELING. I ALSO PAINTED THE LETTERS ORANGE AGAIN ABOUT 4 YEARS AGO. IT'S IN A PICTURE I POSTED IN THIS THREAD....

http://www.oldgas.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=132984&page=10

Yea I used an expensive clean so Hopefully it holds up Spies Hecker- Thanks for the compliment!!

IS THAT BRAND A SPAR/MARINE VARNISH/CLEAR-COAT? NEVER HEARD OF THAT BRAND. WHERE DID YOU PURCHASE IT?

It's automotive clear coat- German Company- Got it through a body man who is a friend. I think they have a website- Not your run of the mill sherwin williams/dupont.

SPRAYED OR BRUSHED ON TYPE?

POUR IT ON. I did that on an old boat deck I had & it leveled itself out before setting up. Filled all the gaps in.

Sprayed with an automotive paint gun HVLP new style not the old suction guns. On a sunny day I will try to get some better pictures. These pictures do not do justice. The sign came out great.