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#789585 Thu Mar 30 2023 07:50 AM
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I am in the middle of restoring my Wayne 60 gas pump and am hoping you guys can help me.

What are the fasteners for on the very top front sheet metal just to the right of the trim? There is one in each side of the pump.

What is the position of the rest handle? Does it cover the access door or is it up out of the way?

Is it common for the sight glass bezel to have a large gap between it and the sheet metal? Looks like I am going to have to have to use heat to remove the bezels. I have the tool. What is your experience in removing these? Also, are the made of aluminum? Can I weld on them to fix minor defects? Has anyone ever chromed one?

Can someone provide a picture of the cover plate next to the nozzle hook? I need to make one.

Here are some pictures of my destruction.

DSC03652.JPG DSC03655.JPG DSC03653.JPG DSC03658.JPG

Randy
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RandyM #789586 Thu Mar 30 2023 07:54 AM
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More pics.

And yeah, she's a bit rough. The diamond is forth coming.

DSC03673.JPG DSC03676.JPG DSC03668.JPG DSC03659.JPG

Randy
RandyM #789588 Thu Mar 30 2023 12:44 PM
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Yes, there is a large gap between the sight glass nuts and the top sheet metal. You will have to remove the sight glass nuts to remove the top skin. You have to have the special tool to remove them. They are made of cheap pot metal, don't be surprised if they split, break or the threads rip out when you remove them. They are reproduced by GPH if this happens.

RandyM #789589 Thu Mar 30 2023 12:49 PM
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GPH makes reproductions of the trim for the hose outlet, however the real problem is you don't have the specific pipe fitting for the outlet. I'll get pictures later

Screenshot_20230330-144640.png
RandyM #789604 Thu Mar 30 2023 07:16 PM
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This is a picture of the hose outlet fitting with the trim around it. You will have to find an original, as these are not reproduced. The trim is though.

IMG_20230330_195141447.jpg IMG_20230330_195145916.jpg IMG_20230330_195158507.jpg
RandyM #789605 Thu Mar 30 2023 07:26 PM
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I noticed you're missing this trim that covers the air eliminator port. GPH has these as well.

I believe the screw on the top sheet metal next to the globe holder is not original, and someone added it at sometime. If it were mine I'd just weld it up.

The reset crank does hang over the door. The door on the side is there to see the totalizer for the old veeder roots that had the totalizers on the side.

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RandyM #789612 Fri Mar 31 2023 02:49 AM
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If you want original parts I have everything you need. Matt 814-671-9574

Mike618b #789613 Fri Mar 31 2023 06:32 AM
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Thanks guys. I have most of the parts I need.

Originally Posted by Mike618b
I believe the screw on the top sheet metal next to the globe holder is not original, and someone added it at sometime. If it were mine I'd just weld it up.

The reset crank does hang over the door. The door on the side is there to see the totalizer for the old veeder roots that had the totalizers on the side.

Thanks Mike. I tend to disagree with you. The screw on the top does look original. There is one on each side of the pump in the same relative locations and have the really low-profile heads in them. Just not sure what the intended purpose of them would be. I am seriously considering welding them up.

As for the access door. Mine is for access to the electrical switch just inside the door. The computer must have been swapped out at some point as it has the totalizers under one of the face plates.

Originally Posted by Mike618b
Yes, there is a large gap between the sight glass nuts and the top sheet metal. You will have to remove the sight glass nuts to remove the top skin. You have to have the special tool to remove them. They are made of cheap pot metal, don't be surprised if they split, break or the threads rip out when you remove them. They are reproduced by GPH if this happens.

I am aware that I have to remove the sight glasses to remove the top. Thanks I was wondering if all 60s had the large body gap. And yes, I have the removal tool as well. Are you absolutely sure that the nuts are pot metal? They really look like aluminum. I am planning on using heat to get them loose. One nut is already damaged.

I really would like to know if anyone has already used heat to remove them. And, I could really use a picture of the small removable panel next to the nozzle hook. Is it just a flat blank panel with a mounting hole in it? Thanks.

Last edited by RandyM; Fri Mar 31 2023 06:34 AM.

Randy
RandyM #789618 Fri Mar 31 2023 09:14 AM
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Randy, the sight glass nut is pot metal. Good luck removing it. I have never tried heat because pot metal will sages so quickly it's hard to tell when to stop the heat and I didn't want to damage the spinner assembly. Here is a picture of the cover. It is a three-piece assembly. The outside cover is metal and just covers the right side. There is a two-piece plastic inside cover that is held together by two pieces of wire. It rotates up and down as the lever is lifted. The third piece is a spring steal clip that attaches to the lever and pushes the plastic piece up against the panel. All the pumps I have seen and restored have not had the screws on the top. That doesn't mean that is was not factory, I have learned over the years nothing is set in stone when it comes to pumps. Richard

IMG_0202.JPG IMG_0203.JPG
gatorgaspumps #789671 Sat Apr 01 2023 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by gatorgaspumps
Randy, the sight glass nut is pot metal. Good luck removing it. I have never tried heat because pot metal will sages so quickly it's hard to tell when to stop the heat and I didn't want to damage the spinner assembly. Here is a picture of the cover. It is a three-piece assembly. The outside cover is metal and just covers the right side. There is a two-piece plastic inside cover that is held together by two pieces of wire. It rotates up and down as the lever is lifted. The third piece is a spring steal clip that attaches to the lever and pushes the plastic piece up against the panel. All the pumps I have seen and restored have not had the screws on the top. That doesn't mean that is was not factory, I have learned over the years nothing is set in stone when it comes to pumps. Richard

Thanks Richard. This is a big help.

My plan is to apply the heat to the sight glass manifold inside and not the nut directly. I am assuming that a lot of nuts get destroyed upon first time removal. I am trying to avoid that. I would really appreciate it a little more info on the nut material. I can be very stubborn but not yielding. I broke a piece off of the broken nut. It really looks like aluminum just like the shoulders. Are the shoulders not aluminum? I will do a test weld on the broken nut once I get it removed.

Thanks you very much for the photo of cover plates. It explains the screw on the fork. It had a very small piece of spring steel under it. I guess I will have to get a little clever in making these parts. If it isn't too much to ask, would be possible to get more detailed pics of the plastic pieces and the wire?


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Here is a picture of the plastic piece. Any wire will work. The two pieces must be tied together on either side of the fork so it can float as the lever is moved up and down. The shoulders are not just aluminum, and they are different than the nut. They are a combination of several different metals. Over the years I have not had too much luck welding them. It takes a lot more talented welder than me. Richard

IMG_0206.JPG
RandyM #789712 Sat Apr 01 2023 02:04 PM
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Ive had gr8 luck removing the frozen nuts by heating with a propane torch to hot but not melting hot, then use CRC freezeoff and spray it in the joint for 20 seconds, let sit for about 30 seconds and they usually spin right off, sometimes takes a couple tries. Ive taken broken exhaust bolt right out easily also using this trick! neat stuff, a little hard to find sometimes tho!

RandyM #789736 Sun Apr 02 2023 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gatorgaspumps
Here is a picture of the plastic piece. Any wire will work. The two pieces must be tied together on either side of the fork so it can float as the lever is moved up and down. The shoulders are not just aluminum, and they are different than the nut. They are a combination of several different metals. Over the years I have not had too much luck welding them. It takes a lot more talented welder than me. Richard

Thanks Richard. This is great information and what I was requesting. And is very greatly appreciated, thank very much. I will print a copy of your drawing. Now I just have to engineer a spring. You also have convinced me on the metallurgy.

Originally Posted by gasgeezer
Ive had gr8 luck removing the frozen nuts by heating with a propane torch to hot but not melting hot, then use CRC freezeoff and spray it in the joint for 20 seconds, let sit for about 30 seconds and they usually spin right off, sometimes takes a couple tries. Ive taken broken exhaust bolt right out easily also using this trick! neat stuff, a little hard to find sometimes tho!

What a great idea Les. This will be helpful if my plan of yesterday fails. I reevaluated my situation and realized that both sight glasses were broken, so I finished with a hammer and chisel to remove as much as possible. I then was able to spray penetrating lubricant in behind the sight glass nut. It has soaked overnight. I will see if I am successful today.

Thanks again guys. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me with this. I'll let ya know how it all turns out.


Randy

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