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Finished tapping the rods today. Its always a good idea to place stuff like this between two blocks of wood in your vise. Prevents the jaws of the vise from mucking up your steel.
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Please - NO offers to Buy or Sell in this forum category
Statements such as, "I'm thinking about selling this." are considered an offer to sell.
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Joined: Dec 2012
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Playing around with some dummy selector handle ideas.
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Rear long door fitted.....
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Joined: Dec 2012
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Rear long door painted.....
Last edited by F40LM; Sun Sep 14 2014 06:19 PM.
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Cleaned up the hat and gave a couple coats of fresh red... pic is not of the last coat.
Last edited by F40LM; Sun Sep 14 2014 06:02 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2012
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After cleaning up the underside of the hat I hit it with end rust for a couple coats before hitting it with the red.....
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Joined: Dec 2012
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I admit.....the tree is giving me fits a little. Finally got one side out. Cost me a couple of jig saw blades though. May just have to sit down with a couple of adult beverages and go back to the good old hack saw blade idea.
michael
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Joined: Aug 2011
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Soak it for a couple of days in penetrant of your choice then use a small chisel and work to the center. Use a tap to clean up the threads when finished. Take your time and stay out of the beer until finished. lol Dave
Dave Jones It's All Just Stuff
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This weekend was able to do test fittings with the rods I made. Went pretty well.
michael
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Cleaned up the cylinder and painted the rings.
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Cleaned up and painted the tubes.
Still making the pump handle and doors. After they are done next up will e making the side conduits.
michael
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Sorry so long with out updates.
Made a handle for the pump last weekend will post pics soon. Nothing fancy, again this is a quick and cheap rebuild. Down the road I will collect original parts to do a full 'as close as possible to 100% original' restoration.
Almost have all the conduits threads back from the dead. So dropped by Lowes and had them thread the steel pipes for me. Next step will be to try my pipe bender on a few test pieces before I give the conduits the needed 90 degree turns.
Using airplane paint stripper to remove more of the paint in the cracks and such.
Still trying different products on the brass tags, they are slowly coming back. Any suggestions for any kind of coating on them after they are polished?
Advise appreciated as always.
michael
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Joined: Jan 2012
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I used to clearcoat all the brass tags after polishing, that works but you lose shine. Lately I've been using Wizards Power Sealer, it goes on like wax. I don't know if it'll hold up or not but so far so good. I think that's good enough if its indoors. Also polishing them to a high shine helps keep the shine last.
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Joined: Jun 2013
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You need to purchase lacquer for brass in an aerosol can. HD and Lowes don't carry it, but an Ace Hardware or equivalent will. It yields a transparent, very glossy finish. I used it on my pump tags and brass/copper fire extinguisher. Don't use it when the humidity is over 60% or it will cloud up. I learned that first hand. I then waited until the humidity was below 50%, sprayed it again and the lacquer liquified and the moisture disappeared. Use several of thin coats.
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Joined: Jun 2013
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I tried to use a 1/2 conduit bender and it will not produce a 90 degree bend, close, but not close enough. If you purchase a 1/2" pipe Hickey for rigid pipe, you can make a 90 degree bend. I found one on the internet for $62 or you may have an electrician friend that has a 1/2" Hickey.
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