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F40LM Offline OP
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The hose I have been planning is at least one size too big in diameter. Was used for pumping diesel.

Going to try to find a better replacement.

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Original Hose was 1 1/4" - 1 1/2", any thing else will look like a Disney Mouse.
Check the exit threads on pump for correct size.
Nozzles were the Most changed out item on ALL PUMPS.

Originally Posted By: F40LM
Like I said in a couple/few years I will start colleccting original parts to do a full blown restoration. But for now I will see if I can make one that will be ok. It won't fool 'pump guys' but I'm not trying to.

BETTER to do things right the 1st time as it'll cost 2-3X as much to RE-DO later, IF you ever do it.

Last edited by Dick Bennett; Sun Aug 24 2014 08:52 AM.
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Took a few minutes searching in Home Depot but found this 1 1/4" rubber hose for less than $12. It is 10' long. Keep in mind, these are NOT rated for fuel transfers. If you are doing a pump for looks only, it will work fine. If you are going for a working fuel pump you should not even think about using this hose.

michael

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Last edited by F40LM; Mon Aug 25 2014 05:42 AM.
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Tried to clean up the tags with a little CLR on a rag with little luck.

If anyone could offer suggestions much appreciated. Not sure cleaning them on or off the pump would be best plan of action.

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Is 1 1/4" hose from HD Inside Dia?

Bailing Wire or Hose Clamps to hold fittings on!


Last edited by Dick Bennett; Mon Aug 25 2014 10:21 AM.
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Since you are going to keep the pump outside, as I have done for 2 of my pumps, I recommend that you have the exterior sandblasted, if budget allows and then use two part epoxy primer to keep the rust from forming. I tried to power sand with discs and wire brush to remove the rust and could never remove 100% like the sand blasting does. I was able to get the exterior blasted for $50. Boat shops carry two part epoxy for boat hulls. It is expensive, but I believe it creates a barrier to rust better than traditional primers.

Try Brasso or equivalent and steel wool on the tags and then seal with polyurethane asap or a sealer made for brass. I purchased a small can of polyurethane at a hobby shop. The spray size is a very fine mist.

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Thank you for the helpful info model72. I was planning a primer but the two part primer sounds like a very good idea and will look into it.

I assume I should not try removing the tags to clean them then? Was hoping to not have to, but I know to do a good paint job they should be reomved.

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If you are not taking the skin off, you will not be able to tap out the ID plate fasteners from the back side. If you are removing the skin, you can tap the fasteners out with a small punch and reuse them. A quart of epoxy primer should be enough for 2 exterior coats. At West Marine, the quart of epoxy is around $53 plus you must purchase a quart of reducer to thin the epoxy. Reducer is $38.

The back side of my first pump was dimpled from laying on the ground for an extended period of tim, but that was fine with me; sandblasted it, primed and painted, and it works for me.

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No was not planning to remove the skin off. Will pick up some Brasso this week and post pics of the results. Thanks again model72.

On a unrelated note, I have found some members posts to be less than helpful or to be more exact the amount of helpful information I get in their replys is not worth the amount of extra BS that it comes with.

The moderators were nice enough to inform me how to set my forum settings so now I do not have to read any of those comments:

You can choose to
electronically "Ignore this user" to filter out certain member's posts.
See how:
http://www.oldgas.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=227737

You click on the perons name then click on their profile and click ignore this user. Once you do that any of their posts just show up blank.

Just did it, I like it already.

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Once you have removed the oxidation layer from the ID tags with Brasso or equivalent, use a brass brush attachment on a dremel tool to polish the brass to a brighter luster.

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Originally Posted By: F40LM
Originally Posted By: oilmanpat
Use lots of oil. You may have to replace the die with a better quality one, like from Ace hardware or somewhere of that caliber. If you have never used a die before, once you get it started straight go about a half turn at a time and back up each time to break the chips.


Advice much appreciated. When I returned from Iraq I purchased a 25 year old German car as a daily driver; about an hour each way to work. So have no doubt I have a lot of experience with tap and die usage. But my 'good' set is an all metric set I picked up in the middle east. So just purchasing a 1/4-20 die won't fit it. Will see what Ace has to offer though. Just don't think I will use the SAE set that often.


25yr old German car and daily driver don't go together in the same sentence LOL. Looking forward to the outcome. Cool pump!

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I know exactly what you mean. ********************

Last edited by Watchdog7; Tue Aug 26 2014 07:28 AM. Reason: Remove Non Petro
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So today got back on hitting the rough spots with the wire brush grinder. Amamzing how much a few minutes can make.

Safety note, be sure to wear some sort of mask when using a grinder on this type of stuff. Always assume some stuff this old has lead based paint on it. I switch between simple masks from Walgreens and the 3M respirator depending on the job.

michael

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Started making the lower doors today. The bolt holes are 5/16th btw, a little oil and tap work had them working great again. M

Making lower doors for a 117 is turning out to be more complex than what I thought to be honest. So switched to working on my Irish mine-pub after about :30 on this. Tomorrow will give alum plate a chance at it.

Yesterday I ordered to top globe, globe cup, decal, top door, gaskets etc for the 117. So if all goes well will have it all together in about a month.

Then the lext step is to finish my grandfathers Tok short 39 pump that will go on the car port.

michael

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Been cleaning up the rings with a small wire on the drill VERY CAREFULLY.

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