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#402366 Mon Mar 18 2013 06:27 AM
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So is this evidence of a relid? I noticed the rippling and scratching along the top. I've seen people mention such things relative to identifying a relid. Is this an example of what we're talking about?
I don't know what this lid tells us though. That may be a repo and a dead give away for a relid to the pro's.
I'm just wanting to learn about the damage that a poor relid job can have.
Just trying to learn.

Thanks!!

mobil can 1.jpg mobil can 2.jpg

Steve Coppens
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It looks original to me....that's the most common area for soft dents on cans. I have full NOS cans that have the same dents, probably a result of the original filling process. I'm sure DB would know the most about how to tell a relid, but my first indication would be a slightly shorter size can. Also, a lot of relids are on cans that the tops were removed with a can opener. A lot of times you can see the chop marks the opener made around the top and they will be slightly covered by the new lid.
Darin


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Most relids are blank on top, or just have an oil weight designation. I don't think anyone has brand specific lids to use for relidding? There might be a case where someone found a stash of them, but I doubt it.
Darin--relidding won't shorten the can, as they pry the old top lip off with a tool and the can remains the same.

Last edited by K W FRITH; Mon Mar 18 2013 06:40 AM.

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Not a relid job for sure. That is an original top. Ver very nice can. Also I have never seen anyone stamp the top with "arctic". Most of the time it is just SAE and the number. I had DB relid my can and it is the same height as normal cans because he removes the entire ring without cutting into the side of the can. Also some cans have teeth marks from the can opener where some one took the top all the way out before the new one was applied.

If you need cans done DB is the man to do them.


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Very interesting info guys!! And here I thought I knew something! What was I thinking? : ) I thought for sure I had this one nailed because of those marks and ripples.

Last edited by SC62; Mon Mar 18 2013 07:47 AM.

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Ok here you go a picture of cans.
So which one is relided? From Left to Right
A)Outboard
B)Gargoyle Process
C)Gargoyle Transition Can




The answer is C.
The Outboard can is the same height as the Transition can.
The oldest one, The Gargoyle Process, is a tiny bit taller but nothing noticeable on the shelf.

The bottom was replace on the Transition can and the dents removed by DB.

So there you go, proof that the relided cans are not always shorter. Unless someone cut the top or bottom completely off it should not be shorter.


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Originally Posted By: SC62
Very interesting info guys!! And here I thought I knew something! What was I thinking? : ) I thought for sure I had this one nailed because of those marks and ripples.

Your Trying to ABSORB TOO MUCH TOO FAST. S L O W D O W N, buy some books & quit 2nd guessing.

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Tell tale things to look for.....If you enlarge the pic. of the 3 cans you can see a "crimp-like" effect along the edge of the lid where the edge meets the paint. Another thing to look for are cans that someone used a can opener on leaving just the rim. very small and and down parallel scratches can be found around the new lid. In cases like this, learn to identify how the new lid's rim fits on the can and that can help you identify re-lids which had the old lid taken off more cleanly. Learn to identify which companies used company logos or other markings which in the above case (Arctic) can help you identify proper lids. MANY companies, especially larger brands, had identifiers on the top lids and sometimes even on the bottom lids. The absence of these would most likely point toward a re-lid. As Dick stated, take some time to educate yourself either through hands on comparisons or any other training aids you can find.


........Dave
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I can not believe a "relid" would detract from the value of a can.
To me would be preferred over one opened by a huge can opener.


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Originally Posted By: rd_signs
I can not believe a "relid" would detract from the value of a can.
To me would be preferred over one opened by a huge can opener.



A relid doesn't hurt the Value of a Can.


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As long as it's been done well it won't hurt value. Sloppy workmanship or improperly lidded (for some) can hurt value. A 1950's style of lid on a 1930's lead seam can would be improperly lidded and in many collectors minds, myself included, a devalued can. My personal approach is a re-lid should also have a weight number on top at the least. So what one person finds acceptable may not be to another and hence could reduce value depending on standards.


........Dave
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