Does anyone know how to get face and or clock mech.out of can? I got ring off that holds lense in and couple of washers out of center and thats about it.

There has to be somebody on here that has taken one of these clocks apart. I need to know how to get clock face and mechanism out of canister.

Thanks

Here are some pictures of the G&B 66 clock. Figured it might help if the guys can see what it is you are working on.

Are these pictures of your mechanism? If so,I'd start with some penetrating oil.

Thanks for putting pictures up Henry i should have. Thought most knew what i was talking about. Can you submerge clock in WD40 without ruining clock face dial? I got the handle off and face ring that holds lense in does clock dial just lay in or is it attached some how?

Thanks

WD 40 won't hurt the face. I use it for cleaning oil cans all the time. Sorry I did not look at it closer when I had it, but it looks like the two small holes in the middle piece might be for a tool to remove a threaded nut? Like the nut on some right angle grinders.

Could also be that ring in the middle is like a snap ring just putting outward pressure and the face is hanging on that small triangle piece that sticks threw between 19 and 20 ?

Do yo have to soak the entire unit? Scobie has those faces.

I have aftermarket face, Original face says veeder and if I
can get it out I would like to try and salvage it to use.
I'm wondering if unit is riveted from bake I noticed rivets spaced around outer ring. Its soaking in bucket of WD 40 as I type. Tomorrow is another day.

From what I have seen in the Veeder totalizers is that they are sealed with flared stud ends.
There are no nuts or screws that can be removed. Keep in mind this is Veeder, Not Veeder-Root.
Similar designs/ideas in the parts, but still different.

What I have to do on several computer parts is to grind off (or drill)the top of the stud flare, being carefull not to hit the metal it is holding.
After the parts are separated, I use a drill bit to bevel the hole. Then there is just enough of the original stud to flare back into the bevel.
This can be done on thin metal, like in the pic. I use a ball peen hammer and punches.

The pin on the end of the blinder was moved so the blinder could be modified to fit an older computer.
This may be what you have to do to get the unit apart and to re-assemble

I am going to have to do the same thing to the blinders for the Argentine computer, I am modifying #49-4wheel blinders to fit a #35-4wheel (8") The mod requires moving the pins.

Thanks Joe, Im thinking that on back side there are evenly spaced looks like rivet tails. thats what i thought was holding it together.

Thanks again

I use either a bench grindr or dremel cutting wheels