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I have a Tok 280 and I have removed the top, threaded rods loose and side pipe conduits loose. Once I remove the gallon markers it appears as if the glass should be clear to come out....Except for 90 years of rust, stuck on gasket, glue etc etc etc. What is the best way to remove the glass. Is there a solution to pour and eat away the gasket and other materials? Or do you just take your time and slowly pull and twist and hope for the best.

Tok Glass.jpg

Kris Strong
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Titanic was not built in 3 years, but sunk in less that 6hrs.
Work on 1 pump @ a time [unless ya have 2 of same model], or you'll have parts all over the place & NO idea what goes where.

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First, Stand the cylinder on end as it normally sits on the pump. Stress on the glass as it lays on the side will break it, I speak from experience. Once it is upright, remove the rods. Using laquer thinner in a squeeze bottle, squirt a bit around the base. It will take a long time but will loosen the caulk enough to remove it slowly and very carefully with a mechanics hooked pick. Be sure to use a respirator as the caulk is loaded with lead. Work a small area at a time. Do not scrape the glass but simply remove the caulk. As you clean out the filler, the cylinder will come out. It takes time....is not difficult....be patient....do not rush or tap with anything other than a flat hand... After the base is loose, turn over and repeat on the other end.

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gasmansgp has it right! Whatever you do--DO NOT tap and pry with anything!!! If you do as he said and just keep picking that caulk out of the groove, the cylinder will easily come out for you. You MUST be sure to NOT have any pressure on that glass as you try to remove it or disaster will strike! Its a slow process but not that bad when you consider the cost of a new cylinder!


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Awesome advice. Will get on it tomorrow AM. Dick I read your note aloud so my wife could hear and she laughed because I have stuff everywhere but I am fairly good at labeling and boxing parts from individual pumps. I strip all I have, sandblast, prime then will take my time to find the right brand/look for the pump and reassembly. Thanks for the help guys. PS. My garage makes Sanford & Sons look clean.


Kris Strong
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Wear safety glasses!!!! These things can explode! Gary Drye can tell you all about that! He had one that the only thing left was about an inch so he tapped on it with a hammer to get the rest out and it exploded.


Looking for anything from Hoosier Pete, Platolene 500 and Red Bird.
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Yeah I had a cracked one I was still trying to turnout and it exploded. They don't make'em like they use to.


Kris Strong
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Don't ever check to see if it is loose, wait until it tells you it is loose.

Jack Sim


Author, 1st & 2nd editions of Gas Pump ID book, 3rd edition is now available at www.gaspumpbible.com
Air Meter ID book also available
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Thanks for the info there now I know too smile


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Take lots of pictures during tear down. Keep pics with pump parts. They will be invaluable during reassembly. Kent.

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Maybe you could hire these guys!!!

Randy grin

Vistable gas pump.jpg

Always looking for Hy-Flash Gas/Miller Oil, Hi-Speed Gas/ Hickok Oil and Paragon Refining items from Toledo,Ohio.
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Now that's an awesome picture. good old days.


Kris Strong
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Hy-flash,
Is your picture from Visible Pump Co., Findlay Ohio ?

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DB,

I believe it is from Visible Pump Co but I'm not sure. I bought it in Findlay, Ohio.

Randy tired


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If I could have a "DREAM JOB" it would be restoring the guts for antique pumps,
assemble the guts into the frame and test...... and make good money doing so grin
Ya'll can HAVE that bodywork stuff. wink

Once I restored a TOK. 950-A pumping unit & clock and replaced the NON-REBUILDABLE
VOLUMETER w/ a Tokheim 898-K meter. I had it pumping near 10 gpm.
It was so F-N cool to see that big hulking beast working!!!!!!!
It actually sent chills up my spine. grin cool


Veeder Root Rebuilds.....since 1987
Veeder Root Identification CD
Gas Pump Clock Repair
jkyocom@bellsouth.net
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