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thanks Dick... I hope to tackle the first degrease this weekend based on everyones advice, and will post some more pictures...Chris

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cdc1960 #143405 Sat Jun 20 2009 08:39 AM
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If you motorize it, I can sell you a coupling to mount directly to the input shaft on the bottom and it will eliminate the train that will cause more friction and wear on the motor.

Take pictures of what and how it comes off !!!
lay things out as they go back together...
If you have a "reference" computer it will help....one to compare it to.


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jkyocom #143523 Sun Jun 21 2009 04:58 PM
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thanks Joe, I'd like to motorize it, and would like to purchase a coupling from you.... I've separated the two havles, and they are both soaking in degreaser right now... I first cleaned them a little with a nylon brush to carefully loosen the dirt, dead insects, and the small wasp nest that was in the variator. Took several before pictures that I'll post later tonite...

Chris

Last edited by cdc1960; Sun Jun 21 2009 05:00 PM.
cdc1960 #143609 Mon Jun 22 2009 11:47 AM
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yes, that is one I failed to mention ....
It's good to brush or scrape & spray it off w/ water before imersing it, that will keep the degreaser from having to work as hard, and loose potency.

My favorite critters are the mummified "twisty rats".
Mice that get caught by surprise when the pump is used and get twisted around the range arms or cone gear, dry out, then get coated in oil.
MMMMMMMMMM, MMM.
Once I found one in a variator that was about 6-8 inches long.


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jkyocom #143645 Mon Jun 22 2009 06:55 PM
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Nice... you win that one Joe... I only found a lot of dead insects... so...here's the results of a couple of days of degreasing in a Rubbermaid storage bin (seems to be perfect size, and hopefully goes unnoticed as missing), scrubing and rinsing... followed up with a low pressure shot of air hose, then a liberal spraying of WD40 in another Rubbermaid storage bin... some wipe down and detailing... first some before pictures as a reminder...

DSC_0200.jpg DSC_0201.jpg DSC_0202.jpg DSC_0209.jpg
cdc1960 #143646 Mon Jun 22 2009 06:57 PM
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Now the after shots...

DSC_0212.jpg DSC_0222.jpg DSC_0223.jpg
cdc1960 #143647 Mon Jun 22 2009 06:58 PM
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and some more...

DSC_0224.jpg DSC_0226.jpg
cdc1960 #143648 Mon Jun 22 2009 07:00 PM
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and here was the coolest discovery... under all the dust, grime and dirt, some of the original silk screened instructions on the VR survived, including the slogan "The Head For Figures" thanks to everyone's advice, particularly Joe... it runs, counts and resets like it was made yesterday...

Chris

DSC_0218.jpg
Last edited by cdc1960; Mon Jun 22 2009 07:06 PM.
cdc1960 #143652 Mon Jun 22 2009 07:20 PM
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check the variator by turning it from underneath, make sure all parts move freely.
Return the head to the variator and try to reset it.
If it resets correctly, you are in luck.

Still, try rolling the smaller shafts that hold the plastic pinion gears and the 3 shafts that hold aluminum gears, making sure all the pinions & shafts and gears & shafts turn independantly.

If you have to heat anything be carefull...that stuff melts quick
LOOKS GOOD


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jkyocom #143654 Mon Jun 22 2009 07:28 PM
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Thanks Joe... the variator spins freely, and when you turn it upside down, the setting pins drop out of place with gravity, and will slide in either direction... it is very free... I'm going to assemble the two halves tomorrow night, after I clean the small price wheel gears and the two remaining flat levers for the top of the variator... all the smaller shafts and the three shafts that hold the aluminum gears all turn independantly... I don't think this pump saw very much use, just given the condition of the VR...
Chris

Last edited by cdc1960; Mon Jun 22 2009 07:29 PM.
cdc1960 #143661 Mon Jun 22 2009 08:29 PM
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VR's were changed out as they wear out [approx every year to year & a half], depending on usage. Sometimes the total gallon counter also had to be changed if the gears stripped. Very seldom will you have the VR that was installed at the factory. Same with the nozzle.

cdc1960 #143701 Tue Jun 23 2009 07:47 AM
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So did you use simple green or ??? I have a computer that looks like yours and would like to know your product choice.

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Something ony a computer freak ( me no geek )would notice........

That variator has been modified... if you notice there are chains & pins for the 10ths increment plate and the 10's and cents increment plates have slots and pins for the adjustments.
It has been changed to have the capability to go to 99.9 from the original 49.9.

Also the style of the price wheel numbers are different....
look at the # 9 in the 10's range and the 9 on the cents and 10ths range.... they are different in style. When modifying a limited to a full range the tens wheel is the only one that NEEDS to be changed.

I have plenty of price wheels now, thanks to Morgan, if you wish to have them all look the same. They would all 6 be the same style as the 10's price wheel.

Now why didn't you catch all that DB.....getting slow huh?..lol


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jkyocom #143718 Tue Jun 23 2009 09:50 AM
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It is very possible the modification was done in the 70's when cost was over a dollar and the need for 1/2 pricing forced them to modify that computer.
It may or may not be the original.


Veeder Root Rebuilds.....since 1987
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Gas Pump Clock Repair
jkyocom@bellsouth.net
jkyocom #143721 Tue Jun 23 2009 09:58 AM
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I don't know how many of you know this but all the 4" bells on Veeder Root computers have and offset hole in the center.
That is so the bell can be adjusted by rotaing, to ring louder or softer.
Most clock bells are the same way.


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