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Oh, for sure, because you dont need it to be flat or any of that. But from the looks of it You are only going to get about 6 inches of insulation in there.Just an idea to get more Rs. You could also insulate between rafters then glue and screw foamboard to the rafters then glue and screw your drywall to that. You will need a good vapor barrier behind your drywall. ANY condensation will accumulate and then freeze eliminating insulation and causing problems with mold and rot. Also it isnt just the change in temperature in the room when you raise the thermostat.. As the heat passes though the barrier( drywall, Insulation, plywood) it leaves behind the moisture particals that are present (in any air) that cant pass through with it. Heat goes toward cold. Then it will reach the cold and freeze.
Really even with 6" of insulation and then turning up the thermostat it will help a lot.(My disclaimer-Im not an insulation expert-just a think so-lol. Some people say dont use a vapor barrier-lol
Did your cousin use the foam? Drywall is definately cheap and makes all the difference in the world.

Last edited by JimT; Wed Feb 12 2014 07:43 AM.
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I just noticed youve got a hip roof. You might have kind of a tough time venting that with a cathedral ceiling. As has been mentioned you will have to do some creative drilling.

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dont know if it will help but the expanding spray foam that comes in a can is basically mouse proof...they will avoid it for sure...no chewing or making holes....


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Originally Posted By: minuteman
dont know if it will help but the expanding spray foam that comes in a can is basically mouse proof...they will avoid it for sure...no chewing or making holes....


Very interesting idea!! Thanks.


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Steve:

The spray foam is a great idea - as long as ALL your electrical is exactly how you want it. Once they install the foam, your electrician will have a cow if you want to run some more lines behind the walls/ceiling.

Of course, at that point, you can do conduit and boxes on top of the wall.

Jim

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Steve:
That's how I did my garage for "R" value. A commercial spray foam firm comes in and gets it done in a matter of an hour for a job of that size. Vapor barrier is not needed in that circumstance but as Jim says be sure about your electric wiring because once that stuff hardens its encased everything behind it. Great for R value and critters can't get behind there and cozy in it like they can with fiberglass batting.

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The hell they can't.
I had a company spray my wall pockets last year.
They showed me photos of other customers who had critter damage after they sprayed.
They now offer their customers 2 different spray foams.
One that is bitter tasting and repels critters from chewing through it,and one that doesn't.
You now sign a release if you opt for the latter.


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Hmm in a space that's completely filled with foam, the little buggers got in? Well we never had a discussion with our contractor over different critter repelling formulations. Sounds like I better keep an eye out for their presence.
Or maybe they were giving you the upsell speech for the more expensive foam.?

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cold pizza is right I work in a grain elevator mice everywere the pest control guy fills voids with spray foam then puts some small fine wire in it and that keeps them out he said the regular foam without the wire mice eat right through it may sound odd but it works for filling small holes they like to travel through

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I have probably used 100 cans of the stuff in my old house. Mostly, the mice will avoid it if they can; however,they have chewed through some holes I filled. I noticed they now sell a formula mice don't like.
Keep in mind if you foam, you still need the baffles. PM me if you want info on spraying foam yourself. I have used Foam It Green which is a do-it-yourself kit that is supposed to be ok for the environment. There are pros and cons using foam vs fiberglass.


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Roofing experts, this pic is from 1969L88's posting about his new meeting place located in Kentucky. How is it that this structure can get away with the rafters running horizontally and fully insulated. There is no way this set up is vented as has been discussed in this thread. Will not there be a moisture issue? Or is it a none issue becuase of the metal roof? Kentucky still gets cold enough weather I'm sure does it not?

image_zpscd5c6bb3.jpg

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The air will travel up those ridges in the metal roof for ventilation.


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