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Joined: Jul 2014
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What is the trick? I need the upper half to come up so I can sandwich my painted skins onto the pump
It won't go right now with out scratching it all to *****.....if.....it will even go

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1970 pro street cuda.
1970 cuda convertable
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I notice that you are not ready to install the upper piece. From the picture, you are missing the brass riser and cast iron handle? I always have the top completely together before I mate it with the bottom? Anyway.....Remove the upper part from the pump up. Pipes should have unions that can easily be disconnected. You might have to lower the pump by loosening the pump mount bolts. Lay the top and pipes across a padded surface. Sawhorses are good. Install the skins on both sides and bolt tight. Cut some cardboard to lay on the top of the pump base. Making it a two piece, split longways with the pipe access trimmed out. The cardboard protects your paint. Be sure to mark and cut out the four mounting holes, on your cardboard. Next, you might need two people for this but, lift the upper section and place it on top of the cardboard, aligning with the mounting holes. Lean the top back on one side, remove the cardboard, on that side only, and place two bolts into the holes. Add washers and loose nuts. Carryout the same thing on the other side, making sure to carefully locate the top unit over the required bolt holes. Be careful of the paint. Once in position, bolt down tightly. Lastly, re-attach the pump to the pipes. I've done quite a few of these Fry's and it works every time. Paul www.severngaspumps.com

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If this is helpful, the last Fry I did looked like this before I put the side panels on. I did use plastic sheets to protect the base, somewhat stiff plastic film sheets. I happen to have them sitting around for making ad glasses. I remember that working REALLY well, as they were thin and "slide-able" Same idea as Paul above with the cardboard. You can see them in the pics.

capture frty.jpg Capturetran.JPG Captureffff.JPG
Last edited by Paul Bell; Fri Mar 17 2023 05:02 PM.

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Here is where I'm at now
My thoughts were....have a couple strong buddy's. Little mid/upper section up(after I undo the pipe union)
While up put the side panel s in place and then lower it back down. Booting the side panels to the base

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1970 pro street cuda.
1970 cuda convertable
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I didnt have any help putting it together. I remember the holes not lining up but I just used a large awl to get things more straight/aligned. The bolts in the picture (top middle pic) Put pressure on the awl in one of the holes. And then just started putting the bolts in one by one on the side panels. I used a tool like this to help me out. I think its one of those, take a slow, get it right kind of things. I dont think you need someone to lift a section and drop it down.

I think if you cant get the side panels on at all. I would loosen some bolts on the frame and use a 2x4 to push things up, then tighten things up again.

Sometimes having a bunch of guys helping leads to disaster, then your under pressure to do it fast.

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Last edited by Paul Bell; Sat Mar 18 2023 01:50 PM.

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I already havethe bottom base bolted up skins will not slide between base and jar base unless there is a lot of clearance show up from somewhere
I remember when I removed them. I had to use a hammer to beat them out from between the 2


1970 pro street cuda.
1970 cuda convertable
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I think you need to pull that frame up from the base to make clearance if I'm understanding correctly. Probably starting from the pump going up, loosen whatever bolts and use lumber to force them to the up position, tightening as you go. All the painting doesn't help as its added thickness everywhere.

You can't get the middle body panels on right? or are the two panels not fitting into each other once on? because they overlap that last 1/2 inch or so.

Last edited by Paul Bell; Sat Mar 18 2023 06:36 PM.

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I have got one panel on. The one that fits inside the other


1970 pro street cuda.
1970 cuda convertable
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Yeah, I'm not sure the issue but hopefully you'll get it worked out.

Sounds like the two panel just dont fit together right even if they arent on the pump. Last resort would be to start grinding metal on the inside of the panels where the paint doesnt show. I havent had that problem on any of the Frys I've done in the past tho.


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The last Fry that I restored, the outer skin would not slip over the inner. Since I was using my method of assembly, the unit was on saw horses. I laid the inner piece on its back and fitted the outer piece working from the top to the bell end. Using longer than normal bolts to attach and pull into place. Keep tightening as you work. Porta power was too long so....As I worked down to the area that would not fit, I cut a wood block and drove it into the back of the top piece to flare it out. Carefully I drove the upper skin in place with a rubber mallet. Protect the paint with tape. Lastly, I had to cut the wood block out. It took a while. Touch up paint edges at the end. Paul www.severngaspumps.com

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My Gilbert Barker T-176 has no frame... so couple guys said to hang it for assy. I built this over weekend and made top all thread so i can raise and lower it... waiting on bolts to get back from polishing and it will go together.

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Doing it in Valvoline... i will post pic when it all done.

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Looking for anything from Hoosier Pete, Platolene 500 and Red Bird.

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